


We ended up in Belgrade by chance as there was no more direct way to get to Turkey from Montenegro. The plan had been to go through Greece but the ferry schedule was infrequent and we weren't up for the challenge of crossing Albania. So Belgrade it was! It is a very funky town with lots of art galleries. Cool lounges scattered the city, like the one we went to with beachy chairs set up in a public plaza and red umbrellas with gold lights.

The scenery in Montenegro is straight out of Jurassic Park. A huge storm was coming in and there were lots of low-lying clouds sweeping by. We hiked up to an abandoned fortress looking down over the bay of Kotor which is the southermost fjord in Europe. We met an intrepid British traveler who has been scouring the country looking for land to invest in. Prices are going up daily as more and more foreigners come in looking to make money on what will surely be the next Croatia.
What can you say about Dubrovnik? The pictures do the talking. We rented an apartment 900 steps above the old town for next to nothing with a washing machine and a spectacular view of the Adriatic Sea. The
old town was bombed heavily during the Balkan War in the 90's but it has since been fully rebuilt. The historic wall completely surrounds the old town and one can walk on top of it along the entire 1- mile length.
The original plan was to island hop from Split to Dubrovnik, perhaps by hitching a ride aboard Valentino's boat as we'd read about in some gossip magazine. He wasn't in town so we set out along the spectacular coastal road via bus. Our driver ensured an adventurous trip by dedicating one hand to his cellphone for most of the winding journey. The US warship in the bay is keeping an eye on the short stretch of coastline belonging to Bosnia and Hercegovina.

From Slovenia, it was off the Croatia and the Adriatic Coast. When we arrived in Split, we were instantly greeted by a group of Croatian grandmas eager to rent us a room. This is the view from St.Dominus Bell Tower, and a shot of the tower at night. Split has a beautiful Old Town built onto and around the remains the retirement palace for the Roman Emperor Diocletian.
Our next stop was the capital of Slovenia. We spent several nights ın thıs fantastıc hostel that was converted from a former prison. The prison cells were turned into rooms by different artists and architects and each room is completely unique. It ıs run by the student organızatıon at a local unıversıty makıng ıt a very funky place to hang out. We vısıted the market on Saturday, whıch was THE event ın Ljubljana. The vegetable, clothıng, and cheese stands overlooked the river. We both sampled the cheeses and wandered the stalls before checkıng out some archıtecture by a famous Slovenıan archıtect, Josef Plecnık. Oh, and Ljubljana had the best fried chicken we've ever had. Crispy exterior, moist interior, completely non-greasy... It was truly unbelievable.

We took a night train from Naples to Slovenia that made a 4-hour layover in Venice at 5am. This allowed us to catch a water taxi to watch the sunrise over the lagoon and to stroll the town for a few hours while the fish markets were setting up and before the bus loads of our fellow tourists arrived.


The Amalfı Coast south of Naples.
Atrani is a small seaside town on the Amalfi coast just around the bend from the better known and much more touristed Amalfı. Atrani is truly paradise on earth. The hills are covered in lemon tree orchards and the towns hug the valleys between hills. The freshest seafood pasta one could imagine is steps away from a spectacular swim in the Mediterranean. We sampled both and felt like the only thing missing were the paparazzi.


We love climbing to a high vantage point in a new city to get a wide panoramic view. Rome provided this view from the top of the dome of St. Peter's basilica. It was a clımb of about 800 steps, wıth part of it ascending up a narrow stairway at an angle between the outer and inner domes. We had a very busy 4-5 days in Rome of sighstseeing and of course, eating. The Borromini churches in particular are absolutely stunning in the way that daylight falls across their interiors. The second image is of St. Ivo by Borromini.
We were fortunate enough to meet with our architecture buddy Julie Fisher and her dad in Granada. After Daniel and I ran around the Alhambra, we enjoyed a lengthy dinner with them, which consisted of hopping around from tapa bar to tapa bar throughout the town. Everything from boiled octopus in a spicy garlic sauce to ham and cheese on a bagel type bread were sampled. Yum! Oh, and the Alhambra was fantastic to tour around for the day.
Madrid was awesome! After Morocco, it was a pleasure to travel through a western country. As luck would have it, Real Madrid was playing a Champions League game at home, so of course, we went. It was a great game and a full house with 80,000 fans witnessing the 5-1 victory over Dynamo Kiev. Yes, that is David Beckham just above Cristina's head.

These are the tanneries of Fez. It stinks pretty bad from the materials used in the tanning process. The white vats are where the hides are cleaned. Lyme and pigeon poop are used to strip the hair and pre-treat the hides. Then they are rinsed thoroughly before the dying process. The darker vats at the bottom are the dying vats. Various natural dyes are used such as poppy and indigo. The hides are dried on the roofs of the surrounding houses as can be seen in the image as well.
The panoramic view of Fez was breathtaking. The medina is the oldest part of the town and it is composed of thousands of narrow streets and alleys that are impossible to navigate without a guide. Cars are not allowed in the medina and even donkeys are banned from the oldest part. We hired a guide for the day who was supposed to be official, but whatever. His tour consisted of taking us to as many vendors as possible (ceramics, carpets, brassware) so he could get a commission from purchases. He didn't like us very much. It was a fascinating city but a very challenging one as well.

This is from the main square in Marrakech. It is an incredible place that fills up every night with snake charmers, fortune tellers, food vendors, juice stalls, and many hustlers. Each food stall competes
fiercely for clients. We are sitting in the midst of all this raucousness enjoying some grilled kebabs and chickpea salad while the circus unfolds arounds us. Smoke rises from each stall and it fills the square. Music from the snake charmers and other hustlers also fills the square. it´s a mesmerizing scene. The lower image is of one of the many vendors. This one is selling dried fruit and nuts. Figs, dates, apricots, walnuts, etc.

Daniel really wanted to catch a soccer game in Braga to check out this new stadium built into the side of a quarry. So without a ticket to the match, a place to stay, or any idea of how to get to the stadium once in town, we decided to head to Braga. We managed to find a pension--in a former convent--run to the stadium and get a ticket to a Uefa cup game! It was incredible. Braga won 2-0. Braga is also home to 35 churches, so at 8am sharp the following morning, we awoke to the bells of what seemed like a billion churches and had breakfast with the ladies of the house.
We will post images here for your enjoyment as we travel across Europe on our honeymoon.